Hotels #8 and 9 – FLORENCE – Hotel Savoy and Palazzo Ruspoli “circling the Duomo”

February 9, 2011

I woke up this morning after a great night’s sleep in a very comfortable bed and lots of BIG pillows to the sound of the morning work crew cleaning the Spanish Steps – I looked out the window and it was 6 a.m. – the workers and people rushing on their way to God only knows where and went back to sleep for a bit. Then it was up again and repacking (I have now gotten used to this routine every morning and have myself a technique). I made my way up the steps to the Hotel Hassler for my continental breakfast (included with rooms at Il Palazzetto) and read a bit of the International Herald Tribune (English TV channels are hard to come by) and returned to my room to call for a porter so I could check out, again at the Hassler. Once I was done, there it was a taxi to the train station – there is also a metro station at the top of the steps that will take you there.

I was on the 11:15 a.m. train from Rome to Florence and it takes about 1.5 hours. It’s a very easy ride (don’t forget to validate your ticket before you get on the train – yellow boxes at the beginning of each binario (platform). You stow your belongings, find your seat and the train departs pretty much on time (I have never encountered a problem with the trains in Italy- knock on wood).  The train is a wonderful way to travel between the two cities as you see parts of Lazio, Umbria, and Tuscany you don’t normally see from a car.

Upon arrival at Florence’s Santa Maria Novella station, I immediately felt at home. I know this city well and am very comfortable here – it’s just like Boston in feel and everyone is so friendly (perhaps not the same as Boston).  I decided to take a cab to the Palazzo Ruspoli (which was silly!!! –I was in a rush – but for reference,  it is a 10 minute walk and Florence’s streets are much kinder to suitcases with wheels). I was pleasantly surprised to find out that the Via dei Martelli is now a pedestrian only street (as are all of the streets surrounding the Duomo). I had a 1:15 p.m. lunch meeting at the Savoy, but thought I might try to check in early rather than hauling my belongings with me – mistake. The check in desk at the Ruspoli is manned until 12 noon and then again at 2 p.m. (I knew this, but forgot) so off to the Savoy to leave the bags there while I have my luncheon and tour.

I was met by the lovely Francesca Pretin and the hotel’s new General Manager. Francesca and I had a very nice lunch in the hotel restaurant, L’Ocontro (carpaccio with rucola and parmigiano to start, a tartlet of Chantilly cream with fresh blueberries, strawberries and raspberries and a caffe macchiato) and then we toured the hotel rooms and facilities. Over lunch, I learned all about the Savoy and its sister hotel in Rome, The Hotel de Russie (next to the Piazza del Popolo). The Savoy is PERFECTLY situated on the Piazza della Republicca, overlooking Café Gilli and the carousel. Many of the rooms overlook the piazza and although you would think this can be noisy, the windows are double paned and the area is totally pedestrian except for officially permitted cars (police etc.)This is a 5 star property and is sophisticated and elegant without seeming stuffy. The rooms are very well equipped and decorated in a way that makes you feel like you are in someone’s home, (and you won’t feel like you have to creep around in fear of breaking something).  They have 102 rooms including 14 suites. There is a fitness room on the 5^th floor overlooking the rooftops of Florence. The rooms on the back of the hotel are also very comfortable and some even have views of the Duomo. You are in the heart of the historic center and all of the big name designer stores are within a few minutes walk. I got some tips from Francesca on where to go for dinner and we said our goodbyes and perhaps I will stop in later in the week for a caffe with her.

After this, I returned to the Ruspoli and was met by my old email friend at the front desk, Giuliana. She showed me to room #301 to drop my things and then showed me several rooms at this wonderful B&B. The Palazzo Ruspoli is a great option for someone with a more modest budget. It is located less than 1 block from the Duomo, in the heart of the historical center. It is located on the 3^rd and 4^th floors of an old palazzo with the herringbone wood floors I love and the high Florentine ceilings – old windows with shutters and when you open the inside shutters, most of the rooms have a view of the Duomo and /or it’s cupola. There are a couple of rooms on the 4^th floor which are located in the back and they are very quiet with views of San Lorenzo. The rooms are either twin beds or twins put together to make a king, all have a shower in the bathroom, they have TV’s (not many channels- I caught up on some Italian MTV programming about the Palio of Siena before going to bed)- but all you are really there for is to sleep. There is no wifi, but that is "in the works." However, if you must connect, there is free wifi at their other hotel, Hotel Brunelleschi a 5 minutes’ walk across the Piazza del Duomo.

view from my room #301

After my tour with Giuliana, I made my way to the Accademia to finally see the David. After all of these years going to Florence, I have avoided that place like the plague. Boy, was I wrong to do so! I had always figured it would be mobbed and what’s the big deal anyway? Well, no line. No mob and when I finally saw him standing there, I almost wept. It’s truly breathtaking. Perhaps it is because I am tired. Perhaps it is because I am in Florence (my favorite city on the planet) or perhaps this statue is quite simply one of THE greatest works of art EVER – I don’t know what it is but I was awestruck and sat on one of the benches for about 30 minutes just imagining how long it took to do this. Then I walked through the adjacent gallery which is full of Lorenzo Bartolini’s plaster bustos (“Busto’ in Italian) – testers before they were made out of marble -of prominent people.

finalmente - David

By the time I was finished with the Davide, it was time to wander the streets I know so well. The bells are one of my many favorite things in this city (my mother's as well). At 5:30 p.m. they all started to ring at about the same time as I was at the Duomo – so I had to call mom so she could hear it loud and clear – a good way for her to start her day back in snowy Boston. I must have looked ridiculous wandering around Florence all night with such a huge grin on my face – who cares, I am SO happy to be here!!!! Being called “bella” 5 minutes after you arrive (and not in a creepy way - by actually a very attractive Florentine) also helps one smile.

After a couple of hours of walking, I was feeling a bit peckish for some dinner and parched, so I went to a place I have been before, Trattoria Za Za behind the Mercato Centrale – famous with the international students and their visiting parents, however, I adore their ravioli with a crema di noci (walnut sauce), a little veal scallopine and a glass of vino rosso della casa to wash it all down and a caffe! Then back to the Ruspoli for the night. I still haven’t had any gelato – bizarre- it’s everywhere – soon, I have to!

Buona note ragazzi!