A hidden gem in the hills above Greve, Villa Bordoni

Entry by guest blogger Lee Robinson

Up early and into our rental car, Allegra’s knowledge of the streets of Florence quickly puts us on the road to Greve; and we head south with a steady stream of commuters coming at us.  The usual morning blue mist of Chianti (which we could see from our Florence apartment) is burning off, promising a gorgeous day.  Thank you!

As this trip is about finding new hotels and restaurants, and trying not to order our favorite meals, or retrace our steps, we veer to the east and pick our way on some ‘new to us’ roads.  Very soon we get a real taste of what a wine harvest looks like in Chianti.  There are cars and Vespas parked by the road sides, and the vineyards have red grape boxes stacked between the rows awaiting a truck to transport them to be pressed.  The harvest only lasts a couple of weeks, as the grapes are ‘ready’ no time is wasted in picking.  Along the way we spy several well known villas, and vineyards as we twist and wind our way on the narrow and sometimes very steep hillsides.  The views on this road are intoxicating, and eventually we descend into Greve, and turn into what looks like a driveway, but quickly ascends to the tiny village of Montefioralle. The charm and intimacy of Montefioralle  can be explored in 15 minutes.  This tiny gem has been beautifully restored, and its cobbled cart path is largely a flat terrain, and your camera should capture the overflowing window boxes and ancient doorways.

As the church bells chime noon we continue on our way on a ‘bruto’ road with periodic washouts from last night’s thunderstorm.  Our car doesn’t complain, and we eventually find Rignana, for lunch,  Rignana is a dot on the map and which was recommended to Allegra from a client’s visit.  The road ends at a cluster of farm buildings, and a small parking lot.  From there we follow a tiny sign to a terrace restaurant which has a panoramic view.  We pass the open kitchen where a cook is chopping tiny zucchini and fresh porcini mushrooms, garlic fills the air.  We order an antipasto of a strong pecorino which has large shavings onto an olive wood bread board accompanied by a pot of fig jam, brings out our oohs and aahs.  All of the elements for a great memory are in place here:  a beautiful sunny day, a wide and gorgeous view and a delicious country lunch which also smells intoxicating.

our cheese platter at Rignana

As we are not due at our hotel until mid-afternoon, we decide to continue through the back country, passing through the beautiful village of Badia a Passignano and Sambuca and climbing through the rugged hillsides to Castellina and eventually returning to Greve.  Again we find a lane off the SS #222 and wind our way up through the vineyards to Villa Bordoni.  Allegra saw this hotel last winter when it was closed for the season, and is looking forward to experiencing a stay there after raves from many clients who feel in love with it. 

Villa Bordoni has only 14 rooms and suites, and a notable restaurant offering cooking lessons.  This gently sloping property is charming even from the parking lot.  Sheltered against the hillside the hotel is surrounded by elegant palm trees, and lovely scented gardens.  The emphasis here is on comfort.  The dining room, bar and dining terrace are purposely designed to feel like you are spending a holiday with friends.  There is a large sitting room/library on the second level for those who want to linger with a book from their library or gorgeous coffee table books about far off places.

 Outside there are lavender and rosemary hedge-lined pathways which lead to a spa, and a grassy terraced pool area with a delightful vine-covered outdoor shower.  The property overlooks a former monastery, San Cresci...and the vineyards and olive groves of Villa Bordoni.

Dinner at Bordoni is wonderful from beginning to end.  The menu didn’t disappoint as my earthy pumpkin soup is garnished with a large, proscuitto-wrapped roasted prawn.  I was skeptical of this combination when I read the menu; but would have had it again for my main course, had I known how interesting and delicious it would be.  And the substantial beef filet was delicious and tender.

Our room is at the top of the villa.  It is large with exposed beams, elegant bedding and draperies, cool tile floors, a huge gorgeous tiled bath and very comfortable beds, and an array of special Villa Bordoni toiletry items.  Most hotels of this style have beautiful and comfortable rooms, but God is in the details at Villa Bordoni.  The scale is right and every detail has been well and thoughtfully designed to be appealing to the eye from every angle.  The very competent and pleasant staff, including the friendly tiger kitchen cat ensures the atmosphere is relaxing. 

There is a subtle sophistication and elegance; but the secret here is the owner, David Gardner, who is the ultimate host for this style of country hotel.  He and the manager, Ricardo, are  present to convey a friendly professional ‘vibe’ and to ensure a very high-level of service.  He’s a ‘foodie’ and the owner of two notable restaurants in Florence, so the kitchen here is excellent, but not pretentious. 

I look forward to visiting Villa Bordoni again as its tranquil location is restful and ideal for exploring the northern part of Chianti.  

Note:  Bordoni makes a very special peppery olive oil which we were dying to buy, but could not as it was last year’s; and David refused insisting this year’s oil would be much better.  Also, Bordoni offers cooking classes which attract couples and groups…next time I look forward to learning how to make a few of the truly delicious menu items.