San Felice is a dream

Entry by guest blogger: Lee Robinson
Skipping through the countryside north of Siena, we find ourselves in a neighborhood of elegant wine estates, each with an imposing villa with along cypress allee.  We pass endless rows of grapevines marching regimentally to the horizon, olive groves and a distant view of the Siena skyline backed by the cool blue mountains of the Val d’Orcia.  We are heading for the Borgo San Felice, an ancient hamlet which has been transformed into a seductive wine-estate hotel.

Just when it seems we might be on the wrong, road, a gentle uphill driveway appears, with an idyllic cluster of restored stone buildings beyond.  Allegra had emailed Dario Iaquinto that she had been in Siena University Ospedale, but we would be arriving as planned; and there is Dario to greet us.  The internet on this trip has been invaluable; and, so it turns out is Dario with a warm welcome and offering Allegra a pampering spa treatment after lunch, which is elegantly served by the pool.  Thanks to the warm fall guests are enjoying a swim and a nap or tray lunch while lounging on a chaise, by the pool.  I had an ethereal saffron risotto, and Allegra had a local pasta with ricotta, spinach and pignoli.  A generous selection of delicious tiny dessert samples was brought for tasting with our coffee.  Relais chefs are renowned for their inventiveness, elegant presentation; and their very high quality menus are odes to the palate.  The chef here is clearly outstanding in balancing flavors; and each plate is picture perfect.

doorway to the front office at Borgo San Felice

Terrace for lunch

I settle into our lovely suite while Allegra meets Dario to see the winery which is in full swing, processing the just-picked grapes from Borgo San Felice’s vast vineyards surrounding this little bit of heaven.

Our sunny suite has two large rooms, high ceilings, beautiful cotto floors, and truly comfortable furnishings.  The beds have thick and wooly extra blankets which are beckoning for an afternoon nap; and the bath is spacious with a brightly colored tile floor in a historic pattern.  The sunflower shower, deep soaking tub, and huge fluffy towels will definitely get use.  Opening the shutters I find a view of the piazza in one direction, and one of a village lane in the other.  Even the view from a window in the shower is flawless as it peeks through some stately cypress trees uphill to yet another tiny village.

My list of ‘musts’ on a Chianti vacation includes being able to hear church bells, which is easily satisfied here by one of two tiny Borgo San Felice churches which chime on the hour; and a quality of restful tranquility which exists here in abundance.

Later, we wander this charming village of 46 rooms and suites, as well as three apartments still occupied by original residents of the village.  The tiny pebble stone lanes are lined with large terracotta pots dripping with geraniums and plumbago.  Roses scream with color, and their scents fill the air.  The chef’s kitchen garden is bursting with robust rosemary and lavender hedges, and lots of herbs I’ve never heard of.  Vines are spare and artfully maintained, and an arbor outside the cantina is heavy with gorgeous bunches of bursting grapes.  Allegra’s visit to the spa turned out to include a massage with fresh grapes, and a red wine bath with very exotic aromas.  She returned to our room armed with goodies by Dr. Vranjes.

some of the chef's garden at Borgo San Felice

As we are leaving for a country dinner in Castelnuovo Berardenga, a vivid pink sunset is on display above the black silhouette of Siena and its twinkling lights.  Tuscany is a very magical place.

Our rental car is a diesel VW Golf TDI so our twisting, turning ride through the hills is exhilarating if you’re at the wheel; perhaps not so much if you are the passenger in the back seat.  Our destination is Del Pellegrino, a fun family pizzeria in Castelnuovo Berardenga, which we remember from a visit to Montebenechi in 1995. Happily, the restaurant is still there, and tonight is filled with families, all of whom seem to be celebrating something.  Welcome to Italy!  The menu is very large and interesting; and we settle on a pasta, a plateful of baby lamb chops and a delicious local wine.

Borgo San Felice’s attention to detail is unparalleled, every nook and cranny is manicured, every view is enchanting, window boxes overflow above the narrow lanes, and the excellent, professional, friendly and unobtrusive staff treat their new guests with the same sweetness as those who have obviously been there often.  They pleasantly anticipate and respond to every possible need.  Apparently, when Allegra misplaced her iPad the entire staff received a message; and within minutes it was located, and returned from the Cantina where she had left it.

Borgo San Felice offers a truly unforgettable vacation in an extraordinarily beautiful and interesting part of Chianti, and would be perfect for a destination wedding.  Siena is within a short drive, and the astounding rolling hills of Montalcino’s Brunello country and the val d’Orcia are within 45 minutes.

Achille DeCarlo and dear Dario, as all the rest of San Felice’s staff did an exceptional job of coddling us.

NOTE:  San Felice’s wine is excellent!