Returning to The Raphael after 42 years

Entry by guest blogger: Lee Robinson

I first saw The Hotel Raphael in 1970 when my first husband (an architect and land planner) and I were on our way to Sardinia where he was working on a project on the Costa Smeralda.  My mother-in-law had generously made it possible for me to go along, so we could carve out a second honeymoon during the weekends of his sojourn there.

It was my first trip to Rome, and the taxi from Fumicino brought us down the via Aurelia past the American Academy to a park on the Gianiculum overlooking the city.  The magnificent Vatican looked close enough to touch.  What a perfect introduction to Rome!

We slid down into Trastevere and over the Tiber and onto the busy Corso, and into a side street which passing the Piazza Navona where families where enjoying the day.  Our taxi seemed to dive from the bright summer sunshine into the cool alley and came to a halt in front of a building with a façade carpeted in dripping ivy.  Once across the threshold the old world charm of Swiss-trained hoteliers took excellent care of us, and our charming room had a small balcony overlooking the trattoria next door.

Our stay there and our forays into the neighborhoods, museums, churches and dinners at sidewalk cafes in Campo di Fiori, Farnese, Sant' Eustacchio,  Minerva always accompanied by street musicians created perfect memories.

The ivy draped facade of the Raphael

Today, we arrive in Rome by taxi, having left our rental car at the airport.  The Piazza Navona is swamped with all matter of humanity: artists, hawkers and tourists; but there is The Raphael seemingly untouched by the outside world, except for the tourists who are lingering across the street hoping to catch sight of a movies star emerging from the ivy. The lobby has been rearranged, but the staff seems to still have the same uniforms, and more importantly the same friendly and efficient demeanor.  The lobby now is more art gallery than lobby with its extensive collection of Picasso drawings and pottery.  And there are other changes:  we have a quick lunch on the roof which now has a real dining terrace.  42 years ago, we there were a few chairs, and perhaps a table or two, and we had to arrange to have a breakfast of the traditional hard roll, a cornetto and coffee; and we were usually alone.  The once charming rooftop view of hidden garret terraces and chimney pots is now punctuated by an abundance of cell phone and TV dishes.  Startling at first, but it is, of course, a sign of another generation. 

The roof terrace restaurant and bar

Our Richard Meier designed suite is spare and beautiful with an extravagant bathroom, and  ample closets, unlike the camere of the old Raphael.  There is even an electronic bed for maximum comfort, as well as electronic shades to shut out the world.

Waiting for us in the room!

catching up on emails

our very large tv

the shower in the spacious bathroom

The Raphael has also nodded to the American style breakfast buffet in their lovely dining room, and it is extensive and delicious.  The staff is extraordinarily pleasant to deal with, ensuring our visit is restful and more or less perfect.  The location can’t be beat…but I’m hoping they are planning to redo much of the above the ground floor hallways which are scarred and ‘dinged’, and especially the hall carpets which frankly needed redoing a year ago. Many thanks to Viorica for ‘smoothing out our wrinkles’

back at the hotel after a long last day in Italy - 8 hotels in one day!!