Entry by guest blogger: Lee Robinson
The Maremman coast is still relatively unknown by most American tourists. Its sand dune beaches are obviously very popular with northern and eastern Europeans in the summer, as the approach roads are lined with caravan parks. But, from this time of year until May it will be quiet. We pass the Parco Uccellina – a vast coastal park with miles of deep umbrella pine forests lining the inland side of the beaches providing cool shade from the intense summer sun.
The Maremman coast is still relatively unknown by most American tourists. Its sand dune beaches are obviously very popular with northern and eastern Europeans in the summer, as the approach roads are lined with caravan parks. But, from this time of year until May it will be quiet. We pass the Parco Uccellina – a vast coastal park with miles of deep umbrella pine forests lining the inland side of the beaches providing cool shade from the intense summer sun.
We
are crossing an isthmus to the Argentario just west of Orbetello – a
mountainous almost island where if you (like Napoleon) can take a ferry to the
charming island of Elba. The ferry leaves from Porto Santo Stefano, but
we go the other way to Porto Ercole.
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| Porto Ercole harbor |
It’s
the beginning of October and summer is still here with the sun shining on
charming Porto Ercole, a very crowded oval yacht harbor with floating marina
anchorages protected by a breakwater, and a huge Spanish fort which looms on a
promontory above the town – a relic from an earlier invasion. We
pass through the town easily, which in summer takes much longer, and drive
over a ridge along a road high above the deep blue Tyrhennian Sea with a very
distracting panorama.
Soon, Il Pellicano appears cascading down a rocky cliff to the sparkling water’s
edge. The landscape is dripping with vibrant summer blooms: bright
magenta bougainvillea, sky blue plumbago, red red red hibiscus, pink oleanders
and mature waterfalls of creeping rosemary and sprawling lavenders.
At
Il Pellicano, the airy sun-filled rooms are elegant and comfortable, decorated
in subtle shades of whites and tans with intermittent splashes of fruit
colors. The dining room and terrace have a fanciful theme with birdcages
and there are fireplaces to take the chill off the cool ‘shoulder’ season
days. Il Pellicano is reminiscent of the sophisticated resort hotels of
the Costa Smeralda (Sardinia). A perfect spot for a honeymoon,
anniversary – a true departure and rest/restoring place. The Spa features
Santa Maria Novella products. There is a salon, a gift shop to splurge
on a Mediterranean outfit. The best rooms/guest houses have terraces to
take in the spectacular sea view.
Understated
luxury here is in abundance, and the many terraced levels cling to the side of
the hill overlooking a glamorous pool, sunning floats and a small
anchorage. As we climb the steep driveway back to the panorama a
high-speed boat streaks across the coast toward Il Pellicano leaving a bright
white foamy wake on the cobalt blue sea.
Back
in the village of Porto Ercole before we leave the Argentario we have a delicious
pasta lunch on the waterfront strand in Porto Ercole…one with lots of baby
clams (vongole) and garlic and the other with a simple, but intense and
pungent fresh lemon sauce. Both were extraordinarily good…and a great value for
just a few euros.
The
Maremma is truly worth exploring, and it is just 45 minutes from the
fascinating Etruscan villages of Saturnia, Sovana, Sorano and
Pitigliano.
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| In Porto Ercole |
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| the harbor |
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