L'Andana, a little bit of France in Tuscany

Entry by guest blogger: Lee Robinson

World famous French chef, Alain Ducasse, has fallen in love with Italy.   The result of this love affair is his gorgeous seaside tenuta (farm) on the rural outskirts of Grosseto.  The approach alone is dreamily Tuscan.  The long driveway is lined alternately with cypress and umbrella pines.  Visible for some distance before we are buzzed in at the gate, we pass corrals with a dozen or so enormous Chianina beef cattle complete with intimidating horns, and some chickens, pigs and other farm animals.

The driveway at L'Andana

Chianina along the driveway

The restoration of this villa is modern and upscale in all the right ways.  The public rooms are light, bright and generous, but not overwhelming in scale.  Lots of glass in a newer addition (bar and living space) connects the main building with the rooms and suites overlook a green terrace.  There is a smaller dining room, and larger glass conservatory dining room has been added to the front of the villa bringing the gardens, fountain and sunsets ‘inside’.  In the evening the gardens are up-lit and a tiny chapel at the corner of the terrace glows in a halo of light.

When you look closely an extraordinary attention to details reveals itself, like downspouts which have a modern arty gargoyle look.  The cantina has a ‘knock your socks off’ stairway to a gallery above where world famous artists who live locally are showing their art.  The guest rooms are ‘tres elegant’ with lovely linens and draperies, more than enough built-in closets, and gorgeous baths with double sinks.  The pool is nicely hidden with its own views of distant mountains; and a stairway leads down the hill to the winery, cantina, a seasonal trattoria.

We came for the food, and weren’t disappointed.  Dining here is a ‘grown-up’ experience, while not totally formal, everyone is well-dressed…this is Italy afterall.  The service is impeccable, and the staff of charming and sometimes amusing young men are very pleasant and well informed without the ‘snoot factor’.  Courses are presented with French precision with the right utensils, and virtually everything is delicious.  I don’t know what my roast lamb tenderloin was marinated in, but the aroma was delicate and almost flowery.  Unlike the saltless Italian breads, a decidedly French influence in variety and taste.

inside the restaurant at the villa

Breakfast is special too as we pick most of it out ourselves in the charming kitchen, where a chef’s stove cranks out cozy BTUs taking the morning chill off.   French pastries, fresh juices and Italian coffee are outstanding.

A Frenchman has integrated his classic training with very fresh ‘from the farm’ ingredients, and an impeccably good cuisine.  The wine list is, of course, outstanding, and there are some relatively inexpensive choices.

art installation in the gallery above the wine tasting room -  oversized chairs made of  grape vines!

our bathroom

our sitting area

The staff like everything else at L’Andana is excellent, particularly Paolo who was very helpful to us. Extensive walking paths are great for getting exercise while exploring this beautiful self-sufficient estate.  The charming yacht harbor of Castiliglione di Pescaia is nearby with its ancient Spanish fort looming over the town, as well as beautiful duney beaches of the Parco Naturale della Maremma.  Again the Maremma shines with laid back sophisticated charm amid a gorgeous seaside backdrop.