Hotels #6 and 7 - The Borghese Gardens and Museum - Hotel Hassler and it's boutique hotel overlooking the Spanish Steps, Il Palazzetto

February 8, 2011

This morning I experienced the Executive lounge on the 7th floor for breakfast overlooking Rome. Another gorgeous sunny morning (cold by Roman standards and downright balmy for Bostonians in February). It was a full breakfast buffet with the usual suspects including eggs, bacon and pancakes.

At check out, I ran into Maria Laura again and thanked her for spending the time with me the day before and for hand picking my fantastic room. I assured her I would be sending clients her way!

The bellman promptly put me in a taxi back to the city center as I had a ticket for my entrance to the Borghese Museum and I did not want to miss that! many Caravaggios to be seen! There seems to be a lot of French and Russians here in Rome in February and not many Americans. The taxi took me to the Hotel Hassler to leave my baggage (this is where you check in for Il Palazzetto) and jumped in a cab to whisk me up the hill to the Museum - if you are not there at least 30 minutes before your entry time (doesn't matter if you have a ticket or not), you will be denied entrance. Once there, I checked in, received my pass and checked my bag and got in line with all of the other 11 a.m. entrants. What a stunning museum and the Caravaggio room was a dream come true. Since I studied art history in college, it is always special for me to actually see these paintings and pieces in real life, rather than in a book. You study them and see them for years, but to be standing in front of the real thing... there are no accurate words to describe the feeling.

Once I saw the museum, I gathered my things and hit the cafe - time for a caffe (espresso) - now I am really getting into the swing of things - it's only 11:45 a.m. and I need a pick me up?! I also grabbed a snack and walked around the back of the Museum and the gardens surrounding it - here are some photos:

lady who came to the Gardens clearly just to feed the kitty

something is missing here.....

elegant Roman ladies enjoying the day in the Borghese Gardens

Galleria Borghese

Things are blooming here

I love the face - but the feet were creepy

her's too

the trees in the Gardens are beautiful

red shoes!! - I love red shoes

After the Gardens, I made my way through the Porta Pinciana and visited several hotels which overlook the Gardens - Hotel Splendide Royal and the Eden are a couple. After that it was back to the Hassler for my tour with Elina (recent transplant from Latvia) and Il Palazzetto (home for tonight).
The Hotel Hassler is a traditional, classic Roman hotel which is now a 3 star hotel - it is at the top of the Spanish Steps and the views from here are outrageous - all of Rome stretched out before you and all within your grasp. The hotel has two styles of rooms - modern/contemporary decor or a more classic feel. many of the rooms of course face the view and there are some located in the back of the hotel which overlook their courtyard where breakfast is served in the warmer months and is also open for cocktails and parties. The common rooms are very grand in size and decor. The staff is all extremely helpful and will take very good care of you. I called upon the concierge's expertise to find a great restaurant with authentic food and not many tourists - he suggested Tullio off of the Piazza Barberini and made me a reservation for 8 p.m that night. Grazie!

After the Hassler, we viewed Il Palazzetto, the boutique hotel started by the general manager of the Hassler. It is located across the Piazza Trinita dei Monti and about halfway down the Spanish Steps. I had room #2 overlooking the steps and the best room of the 4 they have. Above the rooms is a terrace wine bar and restaurant (for the warmer months) and for the colder months and those who prefer to dine indoors, there is another - all called Il Palazzetto. The people watching from the room and the bar/restaurant is not to be matched in Rome -

Room #2 at Il Palazzetto

Yup- those are the Spanish Steps

Room #2 at Il Palazzetto

Tullio was delicious - artichokes, prosciutto di parma and carbonara, half a bottle of wine and a caffe and then back up the hill to crash at Il Palazzetto!

from the top of the Spanish Steps

Buona notte ragazzi

Hotels #4 and 5 - River Palace Tour and the Cavalieri

view from my room at the Cavalieri of Rome

This morning I awoke in my room at the River Palace and quickly repacked everything and made my way down the two elevators to the lobby to leave my things in storage, have some breakfast and take a cab to the Palazzo Farnese. I was in a rush so the cab was necessary. The breakfast at the River Palace is large and as with all hotels so far, scrambled eggs were there, toast, meats and cheeses, fruits, yogurts, several juices and coffees. The sausages and potato patties were not that great and it may be because I made it down there later than I should have.
The Palazzo Farnese is also the French Embassy. In it's many incarnations, it was a private residence and then the Ecole Francaise de Rome and is spectacular with some beautiful rooms. Some standouts- one designed by Michelangelo - he instructed the workers to remove a floor to make the room the height of two floors - the entire ceiling of the room is carved wood. Another room, designed by Annibale Caracci is similar to the Sistine Chapel in the brilliancy of the colors - also in niches around the room are some great statues that feel like they are reaching out to you. I was the only English speaking guest as most visitors were Italian or French and they give you a hand held recorder to listen to the tour.
After the Farnese, I speed walked over to the Piazza della Rotonda (Pantheon) for a pizza (this is my favorite piazza in Rome) and then high tailed it back to the River Palace for my tour with Francesco.
Francesco took me to several rooms within the hotel - it is a smaller hotel and seems to be popular with British tourists. I heard some american English, but mostly British accents. It is a cozy hotel with smaller sized rooms and is located a 5 minutes walk to the Piazza del Popolo. There is an above ground tram track that passes right in front of the hotel and the windows are double paned to keep the noise down. But, it is the city so you will hear sirens when they go nearby. The bathrooms are well equipped and all either have a shower or a bathtub with a shower head. The bathroom amenities are great as well. I am really liking that Rome has caught on to having conditioner and perhaps I won't need the huge bottle that is weighing me down as Italian hotels usually only have shampoo. The SkyTV at the hotel did not have anything in English so I watched the "A-Team" in Italian - I am not sure it could be any better in English - probably funnier in Italian! This is a great choice for the budget minded traveler who wants to be near the Spanish Steps.
Here are some photos from the Campo dei Fiori:

After leaving the River Palace, I was taken to the Rome Cavalieri - it is located in the hills overlooking Rome. It is a HUGE hotel with 370 rooms and is a resort. There is a large area for kids (including a climbing wall), a spa, a 3star Michelin restaurant (closed tonight) and an Executive lounge (which I will visit in the morning). The Executive Level rooms are allowed access to their lounge for snacks all day long, drinks, coffee etc - all complimentary. They have a complimentary shuttle to take you to the Piazza Barberini and from there you can take the subway or walk anywhere in the city. This is NOT a budget minded hotel - by any stretch of the imagination - a bottle of water in the minibar will set you back 8 Euros. I visited the spa and American clients beware - let's put it this way, Italians are not used to the modesty we are, spa-wise.
Here is a view from my room as the sun was setting:

Here are some pictures of the room I had on the 6th floor:

During my tour of this hotel, Maria Laura the assistant manager showed me some standard rooms and then the pieces de resistances- 2 suites. One is where Saudi Princes come to stay and the other - Julia Roberts' home away from home - each go for about 7-9000 Euros a night - yes, a night. Oh, and the Julia Roberts suite has several Andy Warhols (real ones) in it and a retractable roof to go to the 2nd jacuzzi on the private roofdeck. When I book either of those rooms, I will know that Allegra's Idylls has arrived :)
This is a wonderful hotel for those who wish to have a resort feel for their stay in Rome and are most comfortable in the larger chain American style hotels. It is filled with spectacularly precious art (even some of Rudolf Nureyev's costumes are on display) and delicious and unique food offerings.
I dined tonight in the hotel's restaurant, L'Uliveto which is a Mediterranean inspired restaurant and had the "sinfonia di mozzarella,"  a platter of 5 different mozzarellas with a delicious tomato reduction and I had the mezze maniche di Gargnana cacio e pepe - it was THE most flavorful  pasta with pepper and cheese I have ever tasted. I am sure I will be logging some serious time trying to come close to recreating this when I get back to Boston.
Tomorrow is my last night in Rome and two new hotels to be seen - The Hotel Hassler as well as their boutique sister hotel, Il Palazzetto (where I will be staying) that overlooks the Spanish Steps and then on to Firenze!
Buona notte ancora ragazzi!

Hotel/Day #3 - Saying "Arrivederci" to the Raphael and "Buongiorno" to the River Palace Hotel

I awoke from one of the best sleeps I have ever had and joined the rest of the guests at the hotel restaurant for breakfast. Once again, the Hotel Raphael does not disappoint. Being a lover of breakfast, I was pleased to see that it was an extensive buffet including Italian meats and cheeses, all sorts of pastries, a toaster for making your own toast (all sorts of breads to toast), scrambled eggs, sausages, BACON, sauteed mushrooms, onions, tomatoes and several types of freshly squeezed juices. Again, I cleaned the plate anticipating a long day of walking around and probably a late lunch, if at all.
After breakfast, I sadly collected my things, wrote gushing thank you notes to my hosts at the hotel and took a taxi across the city to the River Palace Hotel. The River Palace is located a 2 minutes walk to the Piazza del Popolo. We passed the Museo dell'Ara Pacis in the cab and all I could think of was Valentino's reaction to having his retrospective held at the Ara Pacis. Back to the hotel. The River Palace is a very nice hotel located away from the hustle and bustle of the Spanish Steps, but a very easy walk (15 minutes max):

The River Palace Hotel is in two buildings. The front desk, breakfast room and bar are located on the ground level with a nice lobby with some internet points and couches for the guests. I was greeted at check in and since I was 2 hours early for check in, I was surprised that my room was ready. The bellman promptly showed me where to go for breakfast and told me about the Happy Hour (50% off at the bar for guests in the evening) and then escorted me to my room (which was upgraded). We took one elevator to the 1st floor and then walked down the hall to another elevator (the second building) to take me to the 4th floor. My room, #406 is a cozy room with a window overlooking the courtyard (quieter on this side as the hotel is on a street with modern street cars). The bathroom is large and well equipped with a walk in shower, bidet and toilet and the amenities kit contains conditioner (which is rare in Italian hotels). I dropped my things and ventured outwards to explore this neighborhood.

Spanish Steps on a Sunday - midday

a real child - not a doll

My original intention was to go to the Palazzo Barberini today, but the weather was once again in the 60's and sunny so I figured since it was Sunday, I would wander all the back streets around the Piazza di Spagna and make my way to the Borghese Gardens and see how Italians spend their Sundays. They apparently spend the early part of the day around the Piazza del  Popolo and the Spanish Steps! Families were out in force and children wearing costumes (which I gather is a common things here as I have not encountered this before or perhaps hadn't noticed?).

Borghese Gardens - girls all dressed up

I made my way past all of the haute couture shops of Gucci, Prada, Valentino, Gucci, Versace etc and drooled at the window displays. I went to the Hotel d'Inghilterra and wandered around their lobby to get a feel for it as the manager was not in today. 

a bag at Gucci I would not mind having

From there, I wandered up the Spanish Steps and found myself at the Hotel Hassler (more on that in a few days) and kept going uphill to the Borghese Gardens. 

Villa near the top of the Spanish Steps

As I entered the Gardens, I noticed what a truly wonderful space it is for the people of Rome. There are great paths for walking, running, biking and stands where you can rent covered bikes (similar to rickshaws but seat 2 people in the front and 2 people in the back), play a game, have a picnic or even take a nap and it goes on forever! 

Borghese Gardens ladies

riding bikes in the Borghese Gardens

After about an hour of wandering, writing notes in my journal and taking photos, I realized it was 3 and I hadn't had any lunch yet. I strolled down the Via Veneto and looked at all of the cafes with their photos of "la dolce vita" days with Marcello Mastroiani, Sophia Loren and more contemporary stars like George Clooney etc. I also took note of all of the grand American chain style hotels along the Via Veneto. I finally settled on Don Chiciotte and had rucola, bresaola and parmeggiano with fresh lemon, olive oil and vinegar and then carbonara (no dinner tonight). I also found a bookstore on the Via Veneto that sells English titles (I forgot my book on the plane from NYC to London). After lunch/dinner I wandered around the busy (traffic wise) Piazza Barberini and started back up the hill on Via della Purificazione (I stayed at a nice hotel on this street) to the Via degli Artisti and looked in some windows of lampshade makers and back to the top of the Spanish Steps.

on the Via Veneto it is spring already

 I started down the steps on the other side and ended up window shopping at Frette. back to hustle of the busy and crowded Via del Babuino and to the quiet and understated Via Margutta full of decorators shops, antiques stores, grand villas and artisans.

great light at the end of another long day on foot - on the Via Margutta

a nice place to call home

frame maker hard at work

 After the via Margutta, I returned to the ultra crowded Piazza del Popolo where they were and had been celebrating Chinese New Year all day. I crossed the Piazza to the Santa Maria del Popolo to FINALLY see the Caravaggio's they have in one of the apses (sorry, no pics allowed inside)

Piazza del Popolo

Tomorrow is more of a full day - tour of the Palazzo Farnese in the morning, a tour of River Hotel and then off to the next hotel.
Buona notte!

Hotel/Day #2 - Hotel Raphael - in the lap of luxury and comfort, perfectly located in the midst of the centro storico

 

After leaving the Palazzo Manfredi this afternoon, I was taken by cab to the Hotel Raphael (short cab ride = under 10 Euros). Upon arrival, I was greeted by a bellman with a top hat and cape and escorted to the front desk where I was promptly addressed as "Signora Pawlowski" (I am not a lover of the fact that I have reached a certain age where :Signorina" is no longer used!) and Nabila showed me the hotel and many of its wonderful rooms and facilities. Since my room, the magnificent Suite Santa Maria dell'Anime (one of the Richard Meier rooms) was not yet ready, I enjoyed the 360 degree views from the rooftop terrace (not open in winter- however today's 60 degrees and sun, sun, sun make it the ideal place to relax) - from the roof, you can see the Pantheon, St Peter's Piazza Venezia, EVERYTHING - see video here: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Allegras-Idylls/406987755435

There are two floors at the hotel which have Richard Meier designed rooms and suites. The rest of the rooms and suites are classic in style - less modern. I was given the Santa Maria dell Anima suite and it is gorgeous! a corner room on the 3rd floor - (very quiet) with a sitting area with flat screen TV, 4 windows over looking Largo Febo and a Carrara marble bathroom with bathtub and a walk in 2 person shower with two rainheads. There is a sliding wall between the bathroom and the sleeping area - Oh the other great thing is the beds are adjustable! I will have to play around with that as I am clearly out of shape and all the walking I did this afternoon around the Piazza Navona (a stone's throw from the hotel), Piazza della Rotonda and its environs will be killing me later - need to open the bottle of prosecco they left for me :).

Here are some photos of the Suite Santa Maria dell'Anima:

 The bathroom

 the adjustable bed

As for dinner, I was in search of Rome's best cacio e pepe (because Anthony Bourdain teased all of us in not mentioning what restaurant he had it in in his Rome episode of No Reservations) or carbonara but have decided to stay in the hotel tonight and have something in their restaurant - I saw something yummy with endive and warm goats cheese and pumpkin ravioli with butter, sage and nut sauce - These are some things that make my mouth water when I see them and tend to be a creature of habit. Tarek, the waiter from across the piazza will be upset as he promised to "show me a Rome like I have never seen" if I were to wait for him to get done with work - sorry Tarek :)

Dinner in the hotel restaurant was AMAZING - It's the first meal I have had in a VERY long time that did not leave me full or wanting more - it was perfect and the staff was attentive and anticipatory:

First course - yes course, the water menu, presented by way of a cart on wheels - un mezzo litro di acqua panna per favore. Then another glass of prosecco, yes the cart was pulled out again. Then, an amuse bouche of foie gras mousse creme brulee with a berry compote at the bottom. After this, the best salad of my life - endive with pomegranate seeds, mango vinaigrette, bacon (because everything is better with bacon), and a homemade phyllo purse filled with walnuts and warm goat cheese - oh I forgot the bread - it was served in a silver bowl over a candle (to keep it warm) and fresh green green olive oil. With the main course, (I did not want to get too greedy and have three courses), I chose the pumpkin ravioli (housemade of course and light as a feather) with a butter, sage and walnut sauce which came with shavings of squash around the lip of the plate. see photo below:

Dessert was not an option for me tonight - but there was an espresso, served of course with a double tiered silver tray of miniature desserts like meringues, truffles etc etc and then they offered an apertif. Out came the cart again with two bottles of chartreuse on it - I chose the lighter colored one - feeling a bit loopy and talked at length with the waiters about what it is like working there - they offered up that this is where the stars stay when in Rome - the big ones - and after this night's stay, I can sure say I know why :) Oh, they even provide a footstool for ladies' purses.

I am going to have a very difficult time for the rest of the month in Italy when it'll be hard for any hotel to match this hotel's service - topnotch. Traveling by yourself is daunting, but I am getting used to it for sure with the help of the Hotel Raphael. Every detail and need are anticipated by the staff at the Hotel Raphael and I felt right at home. Thank you.
The Hotel Raphael's motto sums up my experience: "Whoever arrives as a guest, departs as a friend."

Buona notte da Roma!!!!

Hotel #1 - Palazzo Manfredi overlooking the Gladiator training school and the Colosseum

Palazzo Manfredi - is a wonderful boutique hotel overlooking the Gladiator training school ruins and the Colosseum. There are no other hotels in the area with a rooftop terrace and restaurant with a view that matches this. I stayed in a prestige room (no Colosseum view) which has a fantastic bed, luxurious sheets, Bulgari bath products and was greeted with a bottle of prosecco and a fruit basket.

BA Face to Face Opportunity

I have just finished up with the sessions in NYC and London for the British Airways Face to Face contest with all of the winners and what an incredible group of people we all are! I feel so honored to have been included with them. We spent a day in NYC during the bad ice storm (some people had to go straight to London because of the weather). In NYC, we had breakout sessions focusing on elevator pitches, how to get funding for our businesses, how to do business outside of the US, social networking, PR etc. and the grand prize winner was selected. The judges (Bethenny Frankel, Bill Rancic and Barbara Corcoran) we there and all 250 of us at the Sheraton NY Hotel and Towers. Lots of cocktail parties were held and then we were off at 5 a.m. on Thursday in buses from the hotel to JFK to the BA lounge for a large breakfast spread and another networking session before our dedicated flight from JFK to Heathrow. Upon arrival at Heathrow, we checked into to the Sofitel Hotel and had yet another cocktail networking party. Bed time hit some of us hard and on Friday a.m. we started the day with yet another networking breakfast and a morning full of inspirational speakers - The CEO of BA, the Minister of  UK Trade, last year's BA Face to Face winner - and the most inspirational of all, the head of the UK Olympic committee.
After the morning session ended, we said our goodbyes and scattered around the world. Alot of the winners were off to Africa, India, Australia, Indonesia, London and Europe. What a truly amazing program to be a part of and it is only in its 2nd year! I met toymakers, head hunters, people building schools in impoverished villages in Africa and Laos, travel book publishers, you name it!
After a delay at the airport - Off to Rome!

Face of Opportunity Entry:

Face of Opportunity Entry: